Fluke Newport

Fluke Newport earns its reputation without much effort. The cooking is genuinely accomplished, the seafood is as fresh as the harbour setting implies, and the wine list shows the kind of care that distinguishes a serious restaurant from one that happens to be in a good location. The menu changes with the season and the catch — which means the best thing to do is trust it. Whole roasted fish, raw bar selections, and daily specials built around whatever came in that morning are consistently the stronger choices. The service is attentive without being intrusive, and the dining room has a warmth that many waterfront restaurants sacrifice in favour of their views. Fluke sits on Bowen’s Wharf, which places it at the centre of Newport’s harbour activity. Eating there in the evening — with the water visible through the windows and the ambient noise of a busy wharf softening the room — is one of the better ways to spend an evening in Rhode Island. Book ahead. This is not a walk-in restaurant in high season, and it fills for good reason. Groups should request the larger corner tables when booking, which suit a party of six or eight considerably better than the standard configuration. Shoulder season visits — September and October — offer the same quality with more breathing room.